There are times when I doubt myself. When, despite my best
efforts for a Saturday night half of my crew dejects on the grounds that we
don’t have enough time for food before the gig-yes I still do live music, or
when meal after meal I am left with lukewarm impressions. Until I go somewhere
and the food, like a miracle, slowly unfolds its wonders to me. I realise that
I have just come across something so spectacular that I am reminded of why I
started writing about food, that it is inspiring, exciting and all the other
wonderful things of good company and laughter.
In a huge basement, lacking formality but in vogue trendy
with it’s wooden tables and big table running across down the middle, and
efficient waitresses buzzing around. But flesh and buns is not just about this.
It exceeds my expectations of what I would think is another trendy venture in
trendy seven dials, with trendy food; an interesting concept with a well
designed venue. But the food, oh the food. The sushi, the duck, the salmon.
Each mouthful better than the previous. I didn’t want it to
end. But alas it did. And on to the next mouthful. Flesh and bun has the
quality of such places as Roka and Zuma but without the price tag and
refleshingly, without the formality, allowing you to enjoy the food. And don’t
leave without a visit to the little boys, or girls room to see the let’s say
romantic manga on the walls.
Rating 4/5
Expect to pay about £40pp including wine.
Flesh & Buns, 41 Earlham St, London WC2H 9LX
