Nopi, London W1, North of Piccadilly

Soho on a Saturday morning seems like a good idea on a week day when I am planning my weekend. Come Saturday, it's a different story altogether. The morning usually finds me running around doing weekend chores, feeding the tortoise and so on. All of a sudden I'm begrudging Soho and, being cynical, I'm wondering if Nopi, the newest Yotam Ottolenghi venture, will be worth the effort.

I arrive, promptly, may I add, to find Nopi on the outskirts of Soho, just North of Piccadilly Circus, hence the name. I walk in to find a place of fairly minimalist decor, clean white lines, white splash-back tiles on one wall and exposed brick work on the other painted white. Wooden tables, and reminders of a more kitsch era, with the brass lighting and bar elements prepare me for a relaxed yet elegant lunch. 

My lunch buddy was running late, so while waiting I ordered an espresso and I think in that time I memorised most of the menu which consists of Mediterranean dishes, divided in categories of veg, fish, meat and sweets. The menu recommends three savoury dishes per person and are designed to share. I took their word for it. Dessert should be extra, no?

Lunch buddy arrived about 20 minutes later. First things first. Bottle of prosecco. We finally decided on lunch. You know, I actually remember every single dish without having to look at the menu. Our lunch consisted of the following:
Shakshuka, a North African dish of braised eggs, peppers and tomatoes. The spices used, I detected turmeric, were beautifully balances and made this an excellent dish to start.
Courgette and manouri fritters. A Greek dish, for the Greeks reading this, they are kolokythokeftedes, and very good they were too.
Seabass with mussels and fennel pollen.
Chargrilled octopus. Perfectly cooked.
Rabbit pastilla. If I had to pick a favourite this would be it. The rich flavours of the succulent rabbit enveloped in the perfectly formed pastry.

Shakshuka

Courgette and manouri fritters

All the dishes were deliciously authentic. I was relieved to see that the main ingredients were always basic with no attempt to change them. This was done by way of the accompanying sauces which perfectly complimented the excellently done dishes.

My first impression was correct: relaxed yet elegant dining, with service to match, it was most definitely worth the effort. I am curious to go back one evening, to check out the vibe.

It's on the expensive end of the food scale, but you must go, the food is worth it. A walk around Soho on an early Saturday afternoon can be fun too-amongst other things, there are some interesting book shops!

The dishes are around £10-£12 each. Expect to pay around £40pp incl service, excluding drinks.

NOPI, 22 Warwick Street, London W1B 5NE, Tel: 020 7494 9585 www.nopi-restaurant.com

Square Tavern, commonly known as Strappos, Sotera Village, Cyprus

My (basic) research confirms that Sotera, a village in the Southeast corner of Cyprus, is indeed that: a village, with just over 1,500 residents. If anyone has more accurate information, please let me know. About a 15 minute drive away from the more lively, to say the least, Ayia Napa, this is a sleepy place, where some more authentic tavernas have opened up, attracting Greek-Cypriots and expats who either live, or are visiting the area and are looking for something more genuine and simple, off the beaten track.

The Square Tavern, also known as Strappos (after the owner) is predictably located in the main square, surrounded by the cafeneia, the local coffee shops. A family run restaurant, you are greeted by Louis, the owner's son, who is also the head chef. Eleni, his sister is the efficient waitress. Simple traditional decoration there are no airs and graces here. The open-plan kitchen gets top marks.

I don't think you can get a menu here. Louis comes along and asks what you would like. The food, typical of Cypriot cuisine, comprises of a choice of fish and grilled meats, souvlaki of course is a favourite and traditional dishes made on the day. You will have to ask what's available.


Traditional Cypriot: Grilled halloumi and lountza (smoked pork)





Cyprus potatoes make the best chips

Excellent value for money, the food is what Cypriot cuisine is all about, quantity without compromise on the quality. Highly recommended.

Expect to pay around €15pp (appr £13pp) without drinks.

Square Tavern, Sotera Village, Cyprus Tel: 00357 23 824859, 00357 99 605501

Bistrot Bruno Loubet, Clerkenwell London

Bistrot Bruno Loubet forms part of the funky Zetter Hotel. A very vibrant addition to what always seems to me a bit of hit and miss area in terms of the bars and restaurants. Then again, I don't know the area that well so I could be wrong.

I've been before and it is one of the places that do stand out for me. This time a friend from out of town was in London and was staying in the City so the Bistrot Bruno Loubet seemed like an obvious choice. Well located for the city yet far away for the mixed crowd to be relaxed and informal for a fun evening out.

There is a bar and an open kitchen and the decor is a very uplifting 70's theme. I had made the reservation on line, however when we arrived, promptly for 8pm may I add, they could not find it. Nonetheless the waitor gave us a table saying that it was not a problem. I was slightly concerned as I thought that it would be empty, making me think that the food was probably not as good as I remembered. I was wrong, within the next half hour the whole place was packed! This is still a very hip and happening place and looks the part as well-I want to believe that we did too!

The menu is french. Inventive dishes varying from the more simple salmon tartare to the mauricette snails and meatballs for starters. Mains include a good selection of meat and fish dishes: summer fish cassoulet to rabbit tournedos.

If I am to describe the food. It's a case of old meets new. Traditional dishes which have had a makeover. And what a makeover.

I started with the snails and meatballs. Snails aren't really my favourite but I was feeling adventurous. The dish came with royale de champignon sauvage. What can I say. This was quite simply excellent. It's the kind of dish that comes with a twist but yet has a certain traditional heartiness to it. They waitor later informed me that the recipe came from the chef's mother. That would make sense. I then went on to have one of the daily specials: the veal kidneys with mash. I especially liked the zucchini fritti which accompanied it, which had an intense flavour of oregano. I think I have already mentioned that I was feeling adventurous. This was a particularly rich dish and possibly not to everyone's taste. Still. I liked it. I must also say that the portions are very generous. No need for side dishes here.


Veal Kidneys


After such rich courses I had ice cream and sorbet. Some interesting flavours including olive oil and lemon. For the chocoholics it's worth mentioning the chocolate delice. My friend had this and it was worth it.

Chocolate Delice with salted liquid fudge centre

The service was excellent: friendly, polite and efficient. For a cool place, I was very comfortable. I would recommend this place, for the quality (and quantity) of food and very good service I would say that it's also good value for money.

I'd like to see if the bar gets busy on a saturday night. I might just check it out!

NB: There is a reason why one should call to make a reservation, I pressed the 8am button when I was reserving online!

Expect to pay around £32pp for 3 courses excluding drinks and service

Bistrot Bruno Loubet, St John's Square, 86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1M 5RJ Tel: 020 7324 4455 http://www.bistrotbrunoloubet.com/